COSITUTTI

Sesto San Giovanni is the home of "mia famiglia" and my home base for traveling in Italy.  Sesto, as it is commonly known, is a wonderful place to begin your travels in Italy.  Sesto is about 6 miles (5.1 to be exact) from Milano. Sesto means sixth and as my cousin tells it, it took the Romans a distance of 6 stones to get from Milano to Sesto San Giovanni and that is how Sesto San Giovanni got its name. Sesto makes an ideal location from which to explore Milano and all points beyond. It is connected to all important regional cities by buses, rail and the metro (subway).  I fly into Milan Malpensa airport  (MXP), 31 miles NW of Milano.  The Malpensa Express train leaves every 30 minutes from the airport (a one way ticket is about 9 E) and arrives at the Milano Cardorna Station near downtown Milano, near Duomo Square, in about 40 minutes.  Then I take the "tube" into Sesto, about a 20 minute subway ride.

In Sesto San Giovanni you can experience the true Italian lifestyle while staying in an Italian community.  The ristoranti, negozi, alberghi (the restaurants, shops, hotels) are all perfectly sized to allow you to feel as comfortable as if you were in your own town. Everything is conveniently located by walking.  Yes, remember this is Italy and walking is the preferred mode of transportation but you can easily take the tube, a taxi or even, dare I say it, drive through town (GPS in hand).  Sesto is relatively easy to drive through because although the streets are typically Italian (somewhat narrow!) the town is modern in design.  The autostrada is relatively easy to get to so Sesto is a good starting point for a driving vacation to Tuscany or points north.

But remember, Sesto San Giovanni is an Italian town, with Italians, so it would be helpful to know some basic Italian as you travel around the city.  If you try to speak Italian the Sestonians will be pleased to help you.  They are friendly and appreciate your efforts to communicate with them in their language. As there are not many tourists in Sesto it would be a good idea to let them know you are an American (sono americano(a) - I am American) so they will know what to expect when you speak!

You will not be disappointed staying in Sesto San Giovanni for the convenience to Milano by way of the subway, for accommodations and services that are less expensive than Milano and for Italian food at reasonable prices served in family style restaurants.  Save your money per andare fare la spesa a Milano! (to go shopping in Milan!).  After all Milan is the fashion capital of the world!

Sesto San Giovanni is a NE suburb of Milano with a population over 76,000.  Sesto is very much like Milano in that it is a mixture of traditional and modern Italy.  It has many of the amenities of Milano but on a smaller scale and therefore makes an attractive place to stay when visiting Milano and touring the Lombary region. Fresco art is found all over Italy, not just in musuems or famous churches. I've seen frescoes in the Sesto city library; the Librerie Tarantola in Rondo'-Sesto San Giovanni up close and personal. And the shopping is accessible and well priced. The first production plant for the famous Italian apertivo Campari was opened in Sesto San Giovanni in 1904 so be sure and stop for a Negroni or a Campari and soda at one of the bars off Via Solferino.

I stay at the Hotel Nuovo Rondo ( www.hotelnuovorondo.it) when I am in Sesto San Giovanni.  It is located in a pleasant neighborhood on Via Solferino No. 5.  It is a 3 star hotel conveniently located near restaurants, cafes and pubs. 

You can walk to the bookstore down the street in the piazza, to the bakery and to the neighborhood shops.  You can catch the subway across the street and around the corner to visit Milano.There are 16 rooms in the hotel.  It is not luxurious but the accommodations are clean, comfortable and the hotel staff (Carmelo) is "molto gentile".

On the way from Milano to Tuscany on the A1 Autostrada you will be passing through Bologna and may be just about ready to spend the night.  I like to drive a little further south of Bologna to the town of Monzuno (BO) to spend the night in one of my all time favorite places to stay in Italy - the Lodole Country House.  

This charming Italian Bed and Breakfast is aptly named after the lodole, a small falcon like bird (lodolaio in Italian), who inhabits the windswept hills surrounding the country house.  Alice Frontini is a most gracious host who makes her guests feel as if she has been waiting for them to arrive and welcome them home.  The atmosphere and accommodations at this Italian Bed and Breakfast (there are 6 rooms) is exceptional.  The decor is a modern interpretation of provincial Italian country with a decor that is antique chic.  You get a sense of the timeless beauty of artisan Italian furniture and design but all fresh, new and updated.  No musty rooms full of old furniture or outdated plumbing. The beds are comfortable, the showers invigorating, the rooms restful and there is a wonderful well kept pool on a hill that has a panoramic view of the countryside.  At night Cositutti travelers sat on a loggia that overlooked the course of the Il Molino del Pero Golf Club and listened to music wafting over the hills from the clubhouse! 

And now about the breakfast portion of this Italian Bed and Breakfast.  Wow!  The breakfast was phenomenal.  A typical Italian breakfast but kicked up several notches.  The assortment of meats and cheeses, tarts and cakes, cereals and honey was fantastici!  Alice also makes a mean cappuccino - one of the best I have had in Italy.

On a recent taste and travel trip I stayed in the village of San Giovanni d'Asso, in the heart of  the Crete Senesi.  The Crete Senesi (pronounced KREH-teh seh-NEH-seh) is a rolling  panaroma of  wind swept hills and isolated farmhouses south of Siena where you can find the road less traveled. It is the parallel universe of Chianti and attracts travelers seeking the elemental Tuscan experience. The rolling hills are dotted with cyclists and the woods that straddle the Crete and the Val d'Orcia are the perfect place to find the legendary tartufo bianco, Italian white truffle. 

San Giovanni d'Asso is the home of the Museo di Tartufo, Italys first museum dedicated to the truffle and you will definetly want to visit the unique exhibits that allow you to get up close and personal with the prized fungus. There's even an "odorama" exhibit that allows visitors to experience the heady aromas of dozens of different kinds of truffles.

Located in a 13th century castle, the museum is next to La Locanda del Castello, a country inn with an equally powerful effect on your senses. Your sense of taste, touch, smell and vision are all heightened by the atmosphere created by the owner Selvana, her son Massimo and innkeeper, Fiorella who make you stay at the inn very special. You arrive at the locanda piazza where a series of contemporary sculptures are on display then walk through the Castello drawbrige and into the castle courtyard. The intimate ristorante downstairs from the inn (very convenient) is rustic-Italian chic with a private veranda that overlooks the landscape of the town and valley below.  When ordering, I would willingly take the advice of chef  Enrico whose Nouveau Tuscan cuisine and artful presentation was fantastici . I ate a delicious pici pasta with cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) one night and another wild boar ragu' that was both delicate and bold. The caprese salad and assorted salumi included Lardo di  Colonnata, a protected Tuscan delicacy that is particular to the region.  My room was decorated with 19th century Italian country furniture combined with touches of French toile fabric to create what I  would imagine to be the style of day when traveling from locanda to locanda.  

The generous style and hospitality of La Locanda del Castello combined with the intimate atmosphere and unique location made for a most pleasant soggiorno for me to enjoy truffles, termes and Tuscany.

It's difficult to suggest a place to stay in Florence.  There are many sides to the city and many reasons why people visit Florence.  Because it is not easy to drive into Florence, I often stay outside of Florence and drive to Piazza Michelangelo, park, then take Bus 13 into the city (P. della Stazione near Santa Maria Novella).  P. Michelangelo overlooks the city and the view of Firenze (Florence) from the hills outside the city is memorable and magnificent. Sometimes I arrive by train at the Piazza della Stazione near Santa Maria Novella, after visiting my cousins in Milano. In that case, the train station would be my reference point for finding a hotel.  You can use various sites on the internet (www.venere.com, www.travelocity.com.) to locate a hotel in your price range.  The hotel I choose was located on Via Nazionale, a major street leading out of the train station.

Hotel Semipone was about 5 minutes from the railway station (100 m) in the vicinity of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, San Lorenzo and many of the other main sites I was interested in seeing including a gelateria on Via dei Calzaioli called "Perche' No"!

Always carry a small illustrated street map of the town or city you will be visting.  These maps are useful for walking tours and finding specific landmarks.  There are many to choose from; one of my favorites is MapEasy's Guidemap to Florence.  The map legend includes specific information on entertainment, banks, take out food, retail and discount shopping, opening and closing hours of stores, city phone codes (Firenze is 55) (Italy is 39) and identifies main thoroughfares from smaller streets. I would not stay here if my main area of interest was to visit the Oltrano, the part of Florence on the other side of the Arno where the Boboli Gardens and Pitti Palace are located unless you are willing to take a taxi or public transportation or are up for a long walk.

Siena is one of the most beloved of all the Tuscan hill towns.  Located in the heart of Tuscany, extending over red clay hills high on a plateau, Siena still retains it's medieval mystique with narrow streets and steeply rising alleyways.  The multi-colored fan shaped Piazza del Campo (the field) is impressive and one of Europe's greatest medieval squares.  Many travelers feel that Siena is second only to Florence as one of the most interesting cities in Italy.  There is much to see and do and Siena has become a destination stop and can be crowded at times.  You definitely do not want to drive in the historical part of the city.  To do so would be pazzo (crazy!). 

I recommend staying outside Siena at Hotel Castagneto (www.castagnetohotel.it) .  The hotel is less than 1 mile form the historic center of the city.  There is a bus stop down the street and you can easily take a bus into Siena.  The rooms are airy and spacious with balconies for panoramic views of Siena.  There is a room at the top reached by a winding iron staircase that my son and daughter in law stayed in that they said was very romantic!

As in most Italian l'alberghi, breakfast (colazione) is included and is very good.  This is the first place I had blood orange juice for breakfast made fresh that day from oranges of Sicily.

Hotel Castagneto is a relaxing return after exploring the other Tuscan hill towns in the area.

Monteriggioni, Montalcino, Montepulciano and other popular Tuscan hilltowns are all within driving distance of Siena as well as the vineyards of the Chianti.

The abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore about 16.5 miles from Siena and a hidden and beautiful place to visit. 

There are many hidden and beautiful places that I have traveled to with my Italian family and friends in Umbria  and the town of Citta'di Castello has been my base camp for many of those travels. 

The Hotel Tiferno is on a small square not far from the historic center of Citta' di Castello. The Hotel Tiferno is part of worldwide network of independent 3 to 5 star hotels known as Space Hotels www.spacehotels,it .  I am always on the lookout for one of their hotels when I travel in Italy.  Staying in one of these hotels has always been a consistently comfortable experience.

Hotel Tiferno has achieved a perfect balance of historic Italian tradition with innovative Italian design.  The hotel is in a 17th c palace that was once a monastery.  When you enter the hotel you feel as if you are entering a harmonious space.  Neutral tones are accented with dark wood and marble. The lobby includes a small sitting area with a stone fireplace that creates a warm, inviting atnosphere.  Walking through the public spaces is like walking through an art gallery.  Artwork and paintings by Albert Burri, a native of Citta', complement the monastic architecture resulting in a unique design.

But this is no stuffy "can't sit on the furniture" hotel.  On my most recent stay at the Tiferno, I spent 4 days with  a group that included my 2½ year old grandson and while we were there a group of 20 students checked in from the University of Notre Dame!

Ciao amici e saluti dal'albergoTiferno a Citta' di Castello

I'm standing in front of my favorite hotel in one of my favorite towns in Umbria. I'm sending you some pictures but if you'd like to see more here is their website www.hoteltiferno.it.

Staying at Castello dell'Oscano in the Umbrian countryside near the town of Perugia is like being in a fairytale.  The magic begins when you drive through the wooded hillsides and come upon what must be an illusion.  Castello dell' Oscano is imposing in it's park like setting with turrets and towers and arched porticos and was just as I imagined a castle to be. 

Many of the furnishings and fittings in the castle are original to the 1700's but with very little signs of age, it was as if time had stood still and you were entering into that time and space.  Curious, I know.

There is a web site for  the castle www.oscano.it that although in Italian has some wonderful pictures of the castle and grounds.  Some of my pictures are thumb nailed below.  There are two other residences associated with Oscano but I would definitely try to stay in my room at the castle - room 202 looking out over the courtyard and into a dream.

A place to stay that will be "the joy of children and adults alike" are the farmhouses (fattorie) surrounding the 9th century Castle of Bibbione, the hunting residence of Niccolo' Machiavelli. Castello Bibbione is situated in the heart of the Chianti region along the Florence-Siena route near the town of San Casciano in Val di Pesa not far from Florence (15km). 

You will be within driving distance of the artistic towns, villages, cultural sites, vineyards and attractions that define Tuscany . The farmhouses and apartments scattered among the fields and woods of the property made you feel as if you have been transported to another time and place.  Each house on the property has been restored in the traditional Tuscan style with modern conveniences.  This is the agriturismo experience˛.

On a recent trip I stayed in LE GINESTRE, a two storied farmhouse with a private garden, Tuscan fireplace and outside barbecue that my little traveling companies E,  age 4, and Issa, age 1, as well as their parents adored.  Don't let the antique furnishings deter you if you are a family traveling with children.  The furnishings are well appointed but staying here is not like staying in stuffy, old museum. We shopped at the nearby COOP, cooked in the farmhouse kitchen and when we turned the antique key in lock of the large wooden Tuscan door and stepped across the stone threshold we felt like we were coming into. . .our own Italian home in the heart of Tuscany.  How wonderful! 

Castello Bibbione is very kid friendly and everyone does their utmost to ensure the quality of the accommodations and that your stay is most comfortable which is important because not all agriturismo accommodations are created equal. 

Pictures of Castello Bibbione

Attenzione

Agriturismos can vary greatly in type and quality of accommodations from bucolic to bizzare.   Recommendations are your best source when deciding if the agriturismo experience is right for you.  There are several good books and web sites to look into but I would cross reference everything carefully.  One fattoria my family stayed at had an appealing web site but when they arrived at the farm, the farmhouse itself was infested with bees that would come out every time they turned on the lights and  . . . well you get the idea.

Don't get me wrong; going agriturismo can be a wonderful experience especially for families and group travel since most of the accommodations can host 4 or more guests in an home like setting that tends to be more cost effective than a hotel but . . .

Here are 5 Things to Consider When Choosing Your Fattoria

• Having a car is mandatory and preferably a car/van that can negotiate rough roads- many agriturismos are off the beaten path on winding gravel roads
• Get detailed directions on the location many farmhouse accommodations are REMOTE and isolated which of course adds to the charm of the location but makes them very difficult to find  (use MapQuest)
• Be aware that it may be difficult to get to town quickly because of the location - that is why I like Castello Bibbione because it is rural yet near a major town and not far from Florence
• Some agriturismos have spectacular meals offering food and wine typical of the region, others have kitchens that allow you to cook in your villa, some offer no meals and you may have to drive a distance to a town to eat
• Some do not take credit cards

Italy has many faces from ancient to modern.  Staying in this next group of hotels has given me a different view of where to stay in Italy - specifically in the towns of Arezzo, Mantova and Treviso.

Staying in hotels like the Hotel Planet outside of Arezzo, the Hotel Rechigi in Mantova and the Hotel Crystal near the town of Treviso offer another side to traveling in Italy and it can be a nice change.

I was on my way to Citta' di' Castello in Umbria from Firenze and I wanted to stay overnight near Arezzo, thinking I might drive the 12 km to Cortona (to soak up some of Frances Mayes's Tuscan Sun). That's where I discovered the Hotel Planet in the town of Rigutino. The Hotel Planet, www.hotelhp.it is a modern interpretation of Tuscany.  The rooms described as "modern essential"  are decorated in neutral colors and light wood tones accented with downward lighting.  The bathroom is very modern with a bath and shower jets. Breakfast is served overlooking an enclosed atrium of interesting design and there is a fitness room and sauna to work off all the pasta and polenta I was eating.

Milano has always been the starting point for my travels in Italy, flying into and leaving from Malpensa International Airport . When I'm leaving Milano on an early morning flight, I always stay at the First Hotel located 10 minutes away from the airport.  The First Hotel has been described by fellow travelers as a "great airport hotel" and an "excellent choice for convenience to the airport". I describe it as a great place to get a good nights sleep before an early morning flight.  The rooms are comfortable and quiet (soundproofed) with AC and include a buffet breakfast.

The First Hotel www.firsthotel.it is minutes away from Terminal One (the International Terminal at MXP) and there is a free hotel shuttle, starting at 5:00am, that will take you and your luggage to the airport, allowing you to be rested and ready for, in my case, the 9 hr flight home.

Staying at the First Hotel is typically more expensive, around 150 eu, but you will be rested and relaxed for the flight home.

Websites like hotels.com allow you to access the lowest possible room rate on line with advertised discounts of up to 70%.  I recently viewed the First Hotel for a one night stay in June, for 1 room 2 adults. and the posted rate was 90.84 eu for a standard room.  There are tax and service charges that will be added, in this case 11.78 eu, bringing the total for a one night stay to 102.62 eu. 

When making reservations on line be sure to follow up with a personal phone call to the booking agency or hotel (there may be a per minute charge for the call depending on the agency).  Always make sure your reservation status is CONFIRMED and you have a printed copy of the reservation with the confirmation number.  Take this documentation with you when you travel. Call the booking agency again a few weeks before your trip to make sure everything is in order.  You don't want any surprises!

There is much to be said about where to stay in Rome.  I believe that staying in Rome is like staying in Firenze (Florence).  There are many sides to the city and many reasons why people visit Rome.  My advice is to find a hotel conveniently located in an area that is referenced by a landmark easily recognizable on the map.  Once again I find the MapEasy Guidemap series to be very helpful when trying to find your way around a major city.  They are a location map and guidebook in one easy to use format.

One place that I stay in Rome that I would return to is the Hotel Hiberia on Via XXIV Maggio, 8.  I usually arrive in Rome by train from Milano and the central railroad Station is within walking distance (about 10 minutes) from the hotel. The Hiberia is located in the historic center of Rome and all the sights I want to see are 5 minutes away including the Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Roman Forum, Colosseum, Pantheon and the Vatican is a 25 to 30 minute walk away.  Pretty convenient. 

The hotel is full air-conditioned,  has a charming lift (elevator) and the view from my room made me want to return again and again and again to the  . . . Eternal City.