Introduction, 8 Part 1:Food Chapter 1A Gastronomic Treasure, 10 Chapter 2Eden Has a Taste, 18 Chapter 2Italy on My Plate, 23 Chapter 3 Eat Drink and Make Memories, 51 Chapter 4At the Etruscan Table, 62 Chapter 5Via del Pane, 66 Chapter 6Leonardo and Alice, 78 Chapter 7The Polenta Capital of Italy, 83 Chapter 8A Slice of Italian Life, 88 Chapter 9Michelangelo’s Sandwich, 93 Chapter10Chianina Bistecca, 96 Chapter11A Taste as Old as Water, 101 Chapter12The Mythology and Mystique of the Wild Boar, 107 Chapter13Cooking in Emilia, 112 Chapter14Milanese Gold, 118 Chapter 15Has Anyone Ever Eaten Peacock?,124 Chapter 16Tuscany’s Chocolate Valley, 127 Part 2: Wine Chapter 17Sideways Through Italy, 133 Chapter 18The Italian Happy Hour, 155 Chapter 19Wine of the Saints, 162 Chapter 20Eric’s Wine, 166 Part 3: Art and Design Chapter 21Walk into a Postcard, 171 Chapter 22Byzantine Chic, 176 Chapter 23500 Rooms of Renaissance Glory, 181 Chapter 24The Duomo, 186 Chapter 25The Beautiful and Famous Daughter of Rome, 192 Chapter 26Atonement for Your Sins, 202 Chapter 27 The Chimneys of Portogruaro, 206 Chapter 28Ancient Farmacia, 210 Chapter 29The Pope Slept Here, 216 Part 4: Travel Chapter30Traveling Outside the Box, 221 Chapter31Driving a Taste and Travel Trip, 232 Chapter32Via Solferino 5, 239 Chapter33Como and Bellagio, 245 Chapter34A Country House in the Bolognese Hills, 250 Chapter35Ponte degli Alpini, 257 Chapter36Descended from the Doge, 262 Chapter37The Villa of the Dwarfs, 269 Chapter38The Magic of Gropparello, 275 Chapter39Machiavelli’s Hunting Lodge, 280 Chapter40Eugenia and the Kids, 285 Chapter41Saints, Sinners, Pilgrims and Kings, 288 Chapter42 The Festival of the Squeak, 294 Chapter43 Truffles and Termes in Tuscany, 297 Chapter44The Ice Man, 301 Chapter45Est, Est, Est, 304 Chapter46My Friend Lui, 310 Bibliography Index