Milano . . . where Gothic cathedrals overshadow high design
Some would not think of Milan (Milano) as a hidden and undiscovered place in Italy. Milano is a large, cosmopolitan city with a population well over 1 million. It has been a center for Italian commerce, industry, business and banking since the Middle Ages and has been called "the fashion capital of the world ". At first glance Milan can be intimidating. It doesn't have the historical familiarity of Rome or the landscape setting of the Tuscan hilltowns. Milano has a style all its own.
Edith Wharton wrote that Milan is a "juxtaposition of different centuries and styles". There is a distinctly modern edge to Milano. Visit Teatro degli Arcimboldi for the more modern side of the world famous opera house, La Scala. I saw a La Scala production of the ballet Le Presbytere at the Arcimboldi with "musiche di Queen! e Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart" and "costumi" by Versace! But there are also sites of great religious and historical significance; il Cenacolo - Leonardo's Last Supper, Milan's Gothic Cathedral - the Duomo and Castello Sforzesco - whose foreboding exterior belies the beauty of an interior Renaissance palace) .
But more than all this Milano is my adopted home. Here is where and where my "Italian education" began. It was the starting point for my first journey in Italy and for many others that followed. It is for this reason and many more that I think of Milano as a hidden and beautiful place in Italy and recommend it as a home base for your travels in Italy. Begin by taking an insider's look at some of my favorite sites in and around Milan. Visit a unique view of the sites and sounds of Milan.
The Milan Duomo There are many hidden and undiscovered treasures in the Duomo of Milano. A masterpiece of art and architecture that took more than 500 years to complete cannot possibly reveal itself to you in one afternoon.
To experience the scale of one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world, visit the roof terraces of the Duomo. You can go to the salita (roof) con ascensore (by lift) or a piedi (by stairs) for a spectacular view of Milano (on a clear day you can see the Alps). There are 3,400 statues both inside and outside the Duomo and on the 135 spires. There are guide books that just focus on the outside itinerary vs. the inside itinerary of this cathedral. I recommend that you take a walk on the terraces (roof) of the Duomo to view the roof statuary. There are 1800 statues up on the roof, "a silent population of prophets, saints, virgins, martyrs and bishops". I did this with my cousin Lidia and it was truly spectacular. A favorite place of mine to view the Duomo is from the roof top restaurant of La Rinascente Duomo, my favorite department store in Milano. You can have an Americano or a Kyr Duomo to drink and have lunch at the Obika Mozzarella Bar with a spectacular view of the spires of the Duomo.
Another hidden and beautiful treasure associated with the Duomo is located under the ground. There are two paleo-christian archeological sites (circa 378) with baptismal pools used by the Early Christians of Milano located through a staircase on the left of the main door. You may need to ask for directions at the information booth of the Duomo.
Il Cenacolo In the old Dominican monastery next to the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie you can find one of the world's greatest treasures. On a wall of the monastery refectory (il cenacolo), near the peaceful courtyard garden is Leonardo's Last Supper.
Of course I am referring to Leonardo da Vinci, one of the most famous artists of Western civilization, but the Milanese refer to him as just plain Leonardo. Just, Leonardo! as if he were a family member; a brother, a cousin, their friend. The Italians are surrounded with original great works of art and the artists who created them are a part of the Italian psyche; their heritage and culture. So it doesn't surprise me that they feel an intimate connection to these paintings, sculptures and monuments.
After a while I was on a first name basis with Leonardo too "Look how Leonardo did this, do you think Leonardo intended to do that" and my cousin and I would speculate back and forth!
To view "il cenacolo" you must buy a ticket in advance to avoid lengthy lines (especially in the autumn and spring) and to be assured of the time you want. Ticket prices can vary depending on how you purchase them, so you will need to research this. There are various web sites that sell tickets for places to see in Italy. I cannot attest to these as my cousins always buy the tickets for me. You must enter the room under controlled environmental conditions with only 20 people allowed at a time for about 15 minutes. Since your viewing time is limited I would recommend that you prepare in advance by reading about what you will see.
Remember Leonardo's Last Supper is a wall fresco and what surprised me the most when I first saw it was the size of the painting in relationship to the room. It is a mural painting that is across the whole wall of the refectory where the monks once ate. Also look for the covered over door below the painting. My cousin told me it was one of several doors used to bring horses into the room when it was converted into a stable by Napoleon!
Castello Sforzesco Although Castello Sforzesco together with the Duomo is one of Milano's "most famous and beloved monuments" many first time travelers to the city are not aware of this hidden and beautiful treasure.The castle holds a special place in the heart of the Milanese because of it's great historical significance to the city. It was a ducal palace, a fortress and a military barracks. The defensive walls and towers now enclose an impressive collection of art and artifacts including frescos thought to have been painted by Leonardo. There is also a wonderful collection of musical instruments.
You can take a virtual tour of the castle (see www.milanocastello.it). Be sure to view Michaelangelo's Pieta' Rondanini on the ground floor of the museum (room 15 on the virtual tour). The sculpture was being worked on shortly before Michaelangelo's death and is left unfinished. My cousin Lidia noted that the base of the sculpture is a Roman funerary altar from the late 1st c AD. It was readapted during the Renaissance to better support the sculpture.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele The Galleria (named after the first King of Italy) as a structure in and of itself is not an especially hidden place in Italy. As you exit the tube (subway) at the Duomo stop in downtown Milan prepare to be overwhelmed by some of the most magnificent arc The architecture in all of Italy - the Milan Duomo and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele. But what is hidden is the immense beauty of the interior arcade covered by a glass and metal roof with an impressive central dome. That is until you enter. Then you are bathed in light as you walk through an interior court lined with some of the most elegant and expensive shops, bars and restaurants in Milan. An ethereal feeling starts to set over you and you feel as if you are truly in a remarkable space. For the sites and sounds of the Galleria go to www.milan.arounder.com and click on the Galleria Victorio Emanuele ll.
The floors of the Galleria are decorated with mosaics of the signs of the zodiac including a famous one of Taurus the Bull. Click on the picture to find out what my Italian cousins told me I needed to do to have good luck!
Monza 8 miles northeast of Milan is Monza. Monza is a smaller version of Milan and a very nice place to stroll through quaint streets shopping and observing Italian life. Shopping in Monza is on a smaller scale than Milan but many of the shops have the same feel and style as the couture shops around the Galleria. The Duomo of Monza has an interesting facade characteristic of Lombardian architecture with bands of white, green and black marble.
Monza is a hidden place to visit in Italy unless you happen to be a Formula 1 racing fan. Every September one of the premier racing events, the Italian Gran Prix (F1 GP), takes place in Monza at the Autodrome Nazionale di Monza. I went to the Parco (park) di Monza where the race is held with my cousin Lidia. The park is enormous with an 18 hole golf course, an equestrian center and the Villa Reale.
i laghi - the lakes
The Italian Lake Region My first visit to the Italian Lake Region of Lombardy was before Clooney discovered Como.
It was on a road trip with my Milanese cousin Lidia and her husband Roberto that included a side trip to Bergamo. Roberto, an avid fisherman, wanted us to eat at the Ristorante Bar "Mella" in Bellagio on Lake Como. There are tables with a view of the lake and I have eaten there many times with my Italian family and friends. The seafood platters are spectacular. Lago di Como is surrounded by elegant villas and mountains that seem to rise out of the lake. A drive around the lake, stopping in the town of Bellagio to walk along the waterfront with its cafes, shops and to admire the view can be a most pleasant way to spend the afternoon.A driving trip around Lake Como, Garda and Maggiore is listed in Frommer's Italy's Best Loved Driving Tours as one of 25 unforgettable itineraries and one that I would highly recommend.
Traveling the Lake Disrtict is a perfect vacation for adults and kids. If your traveling with kids visit the town of Sirmione on Lago di Garda. The town is a wonderful blend of sophisticated charm and playfulness that has made it a popular summertime resort for Italians. It has been called the "Jewel of Lake Garda". It has a wonderful 13th century castle with battlements for kids to climb and streets lined with ice cream shops (gelaterie). Consider stopping at Gardaland, 2 km north of Peschiera del Garda, on the southeast shore of the lake, it's the Disneyland of Italy!
Verona with it's famous Arena, the best preserved amphitheater in Italy after the Colosseum, is only 20 km from the Lake District .
The gelateria shops in the seaside resort town of Sirmione on the shores of Lake Garda.
