Seasonal holiday traditions in Italy often center around food. Traditional family recipes mark the changing of the seasons when family and friends gather At the Table to celebrate the occassion. Preparing and buying traditional holiday foods are part of what makes celebrating the holiday so special in Italy.
Here are some of my favorite holiday food traditions from Northern Italy, Tuscany and Umbria.
Seasonal Traditions - Carnevale
In the most evocative of Italian cities, Venice, nightly events, festivals and masquerade balls can be found during Carnevale. With mischief and pranks, hidden behind the traditional maschere (masks), Venetians indulge in elaborate celebrations before the Lenten fast. Time becomes irrelevant, social status is ignored and in your mask you are pardoned from your sins. Ogni scherzo vale, making every joke along the way, Carnevale is a time for celebrations with family, friends, fun and food. Indulge in the decadence of Carnevale with chocolates and cookies andtruffle honeyfrom COSITUTTI MARKETPLACE
The festival of Carnevalein Italy is celebrated as a prelude to the restrictions and fasting of Lent. Ancient celebrations (carne levare - removal of meat) involved the preparation of sumptuous meals and traditional foods that would no longer be enjoyed during the 40 days before Easter. Amusements and parties were planned as a "farewell" to meat and other carnal pleasures. During Carnevale you were allowed to release your inhibitions and indulge. Masquerades were planned where social status was ignored; the poor became rich and the powerless became powerful as you assumed a fantasy identity if only for one night before the church bells were rung signaling the end of the merrymaking and the beginning of lent.
Pantalone
Many of the Carnevale masks are based on characters from Italy's Commedia dell' arte, humorous theatrical presentations, performed throughout Italy during the 16th through 18th century. Characters were identified by costumes and masks and scripts were often improvised, poking fun at local foibles and regional tastes as troupes of professional players traveled from town to town. The original form of "Comic Relief"!
Characters from Commedia dell' arte would take on various traits; one character would be very crafty or mischievous, another clever, another old and lecherous. Famous Commedia dell'arte characters that are still part of Italian culture include Pantalone, a miserly old man who is portrayed as a Venetian and is recognized by a mask with a long hooked nose popular at Carnevale today. Another is the acrobatic clown, Harlequin with his diamond shaped patches, seen as a symbol of Carnevale celebrations at the New Orleans Mardi Gras.
View a video by Luxe TV about Tragicomica, a shop in the historical center of Venice where "mascareri", Venetian mask makers have practiced their art since 1436.
Special foods like, fritelle, a tiny doughnut like pastry, are very popular during Carnevale in Venice. More similar to a fritter, these sugary delights were thought to help sustain partygoers through the non stop celebrations of Carnevale. Occasionally raisins or pine nuts were added and traditionally made from a yeast dough. From time to time Venetians were reproached for their indulgent love of food and for their "eagerness to move from the sermon to the table on the feast days of the church" (Culinaria ITALY).I imagine it was recipes like this that according to Pietro Gasparo Morolin caused "gluttony to be the greatest sin of the Venetians".
In a large bowl, thoroughly mix together ricotta and flour. Add eggs, chocolate chips, orange peel, baking powder, zest and a pinch salt. Mix thoroughly to combine.In a high-sided skillet, pour in enough oil to come 1 inch up the sides of the pan. Attach a deep-fry thermometer and heat oil over medium-high heat to 365° to 370°. Add batter in batches, a tablespoonful at a time, pushing the batter off the spoon with the rounded corner of a spatula (do not crowd the pan). Batter should puff slightly into balls. If not, slightly reduce heat. Fry fritters, turning with a slotted spoon until golden on all sides, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain; sprinkle generously with sugar and serve warm.
Seasonal Traditions - Easter
Easter in Italy From ancient Roman springtime fertility rites to Christian celebrations of resurrection and renewal, the seasonal celebrations of Easter have always been a special time in Italy. Easter displays in Italian pastry shops, ristoranti, bars and markets center on brightly wrapped, elaborately decorated Easter eggs,fragrant and savory cakes or loaves of dove shaped Easter bread. Depending on where you come from these Italian Easter specialties could be a cheese bread from Umbria (Torta Formaggio)), a rosemary scented Florentine Easter bun (Pan di Ramerino) or the traditional Colomba di Pasqua.
Pan di Ramerino is a soft, sweet bun made of bread dough, muscat raisins and rosemary, ramerino in the dialect of Florence and Tuscany. It is a traditional bread served on Holy Thursday, when bakers in Florence and the surrounding areas sell it already consecrated by the parish priests. Although it takes about an hour and a half to prepare you can shorten the time with a prepared bread dough.
Easter Rosemary Buns
3 pounds of risen bread dough
The leaves of a sprig of fresh rosemary, chopped (about 1 tablespoon)
1/2 pound raisins, in Italy they use a muscat raisin called Zibibbo
We begin with the risen dough. Preheat oven to 400F. Sauté the chopped rosemary in the olive oil, and then work it into the dough, together with the remaining ingredients. Break the dough into about 35 rolls. Put the pan di ramerino rolls on lightly floured cookie sheets, brush them with a drop of olive oil, and bake them until a toothpick inserted comes out clean and dry.
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Colomba di Pasqua is the springtime version of Panettone a cake-like bread popular during the Christmas holidays. Rather than the tall cylindrical shape of Panettone, Colomba di Pasqua (Italian Easter Bread) is shaped in the form of a dove, a symbol of rebirth and renewal. It typically takes 2 days to make, with a first dough and a final dough and 7 hours of resting after baking. Time was definitely not on my side as I looked at the various ways to make this traditional Easter bread. The most recent one I looked at had 45 steps! I have made this bread and Byzantine Paska; neither came easy and I needed EASY. But there is no "easy" recipe for the making of either an Italian Panettone or Colomba di Pasqua, Polish Babka or any other traditional holiday bread (that's why every Christmas I bring my favorite Panettone from Sorelle Nurzia in Italy to CosituttiMarketPlace) and that's why Italians flock to their local pastry shop during the holidays to buy these delicacies.
Enter the bread machine. Here is a semi-home made version of a Colomba di Pasqua using a bread machine and an attenuated list of ingredients. Not your Nonna's recipe but then again you'd rather be out riding your Vespa, wouldn't you?
Sweet Dough Ingredients:
½ cup milk, warmed to 80-90 F
4 large eggs, at room temperature
8 tbsp unsalted butter at room temperature
½ cup sugar
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp almond extract (I sometimes use almond paste)
2 tbsp grated lemon peel
4 ½ cups unbleached all purpose flour
2 ½ tsp active dry or bread machine yeast
Place the ingredients in the exact order as listed or as directed by the instructions of the bread maker used to make this recipe.
Add milk, eggs, unsalted butter, granulated sugar, salt, vanilla, flour and yeast in the bread pan fitted with the kneading paddle.
Place the bread pan in the bread maker and select the 'Dough' option.
Press Start to mix, knead and rise.
When the cycle is completed, (completion time may vary with different bread makers) leave the dough in the bread pan, turn off the machine and let rise another hour.
Remove dough and punch to deflate.
Grease pans or Colomba mold and place half the dough in each pan or place entire dough in the Colomba mold.Cover with greased plastic wrap and towel. Let rise in warm spot for another hour or until dough has reached the top of the pans/mold.
Place oven rack in the middle position of oven.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Place the Colomba mold on cookie sheet and place in oven. Brush with an almond glaze made with 1/2c blanched almonds and 1/2 c sugar finely ground together in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Place in a bowl and combine with 2 tsp cornstarch and 2 egg whites. Sprinkle with sliced almonds and powdered sugar.
Bake at 350 F for 20 minutes - 30 minutes until golden brown (baking times may vary according to different oven temperatures). Test for doneness with a toothpick.
Remove loaves from oven and let cool completely before slicing.
Seasonal Traditions - Christmas
Holiday food traditions in Northern Italy, Tuscany and Umbria can be as varied and regional as the panettone and sophisticated sweets of Milano, the holiday filled pasta of Emilia, the Renaissance confections of Siena and the flavors of the woods and forests of the hilltowns of Tuscany and Umbria. All in all a feast for the senses and a celebration of a very special time of the year. Here are a few recipes of my favorite Christmas recipes including a traditional cake made with chestnuts and two Italian inspired cakes made with cappuccino.
Tortellini in Brodo (broth) served with tortellini or cappelletti this soup is a standard first course at festive dinners in Northern Italy and my idea of Italian comfort food
Ingredients:
2-3 quarts of water or enough to cover the chicken
A chicken or capon ( my cousin Lidia uses a capone (capone) - which she serves afterwards with a mostarda or chutney)
A few sticks of celery
A few carrots
A bunch of parsley
A small onion studded with cloves
3 to 5 whole peppercorns
1-2 cubes of dado (chicken bouillon cube)
Preparation:
Start with cold water Add the chicken and bring the pot to a boil skimming any foam that rises to the top. Then add the carrots, celery, onion and parsley and turn the heat down. Add peppercorns and 1 to 2 cubes of "dado" in place of salt. (I usually add one cube at a time and then check the seasoning so that it is not too salty) Simmer the broth for a couple of hours, or until a fork easily penetrates the meat. Check the seasoning, strain the broth, let it cool, and skim the fat that rises to the surface (the best way to do this is to chill the broth and remove the fat with a fork).
Chestnut Cake with Pan-Roasted Pears and Chestnut Honey Syrup (makes 1 medium cake - 8 servings) - Gluten free
Ingredients for Cake 1 1/4 cups chestnut flour 1 teaspoon baking powder pinch sea salt 3 large eggs - at room temperature 2/3 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 12 tablespoons unsalted butter - melted and slightly cooled 1-9″ non-stick round spring-form cake pan - buttered and floured
Ingredients for Pan- Roasted Pears 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 medium, ripe Bartlett or red pears - peeled and cut in 1/2″ slices 1 tablespoon sugar Ingredients for Chestnut Honey Syrup 1/2 cup chestnut honey 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Preheat oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, combine the chestnut flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.Place the eggs in a large bowl, whip at high speed for 4 to 5 minutes, until soft peaks form and the mixture is a pale cream color. Add the sugar, then vanilla and continue whipping at high speed for another 30 seconds. Fold the chestnut flour mixture into the egg mixture until just incorporated. Then fold in the butter. Do not overmix or the cake will not rise. Pour mixture into the
a non-stick round spring-form cake pan - buttered and floured and bake for to 25 to 30 minutes until just golden. Remove from oven and let cool in its mold to room temperature before serving.Heat butter in a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat. Once melted, add the pear slices and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes until golden. Reduce heat to medium, sprinkle the pear slices with the sugar and flip them, being careful not to break them. Continue to sauté for 2 to 3 minutes until golden. Remove pear slices from pan and set aside. Return the heated pan just used for sautéing the pears to the stove.Add the honey and lemon juice and turn off the heat. Stir until the honey for about 5 seconds until it is smooth and liquid then set aside. To serve, place a slice of cake in the center of a plate. Place a few warm pear slices next to it. Drizzle with the chestnut honey syrup. Garnish with rosemary sprig, dust with powdered sugar and serve immediately.The cake can be made up to 2 days ahead and kept at room temperature, in a cool place. The pears and syrup should be made right before serving.
Cappuccino Angel Food Cake
Preheat oven to 375°F. On waxed paper, mix 1 c cake flour flour and 1/2 cup confectioners' sugar; set flour mixture aside. In large bowl, with mixer at high speed, beat 1 2/3 c egg whites, 4 t instant espresso coffee powder,1 1/2 t cream of tartar, 1/2 salt, and 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon until soft peaks form; beat in 1 1/2 t vanilla. Sprinkle in 1 1/4 c sugar, 2 tablespoons at a time, beating mixture until sugar completely dissolves and egg whites stand in stiff, glossy peaks. Sift flour mixture over breaten egg whites, one third at a time, folding in with rubber spatula after each addition, just until flour disappears.
Spoon batter into ungreased 10 inch tube pan. Bake cake 35 to 40 minutes, until top springs back when lightly touched with finger. Invert cake in pan on funnel or empty wine bottle; cool completely in pan. With metal spatula, carefully loosen cake from pan; place on cake plate. In a cup, mix 1 tablespoon confectioners' sugar with 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon; sprinkle lightly over cake.
Cappuccino Pudding Cake
Preheat oven to 350 F.
Lightly coat an 8x8x2-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.
Ingredients
1 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup fat-free milk
1/2 cup applesauce
1 teaspoon vanilla
1-3/4 cups hot water
3/4 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon instant coffee granules
1 cup cappuccino chunk low-fat ice cream
Directions
Lightly coat an 8x8x2-inch baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.
In a large bowl combine flour, granulated sugar, 1/4 cup cocoa powder, the baking powder, and salt. Stir in milk, applesauce, and vanilla until thoroughly mixed. Pour into prepared pan.
In a small bowl combine the hot water, brown sugar, 1/4 cup cocoa powder, and the coffee granules. Carefully pour water mixture over cake batter. Bake in a 350 degree F oven for 45 minutes. Spoon warm cake and pudding into dessert dishes. Serve with cappuccino chunk ice cream. Makes 10 servings.
Seasonal Traditions - Valentine's Day
Italians do not celebrate Valentine's Day as a one day merchandising campaign because love is in the air all year long in Italy and has been for centuries. While we were busy developing the austere virtues of the Reformation, the Italians were relaxing in the inspiring glow of the Renaissance. And although we might want to identify the Italian style of love differently, Italians more often equate love with the concept of enchantment, charm or delight, innamorato. Italians have been studying the concept of love for a longer time and in much more detail than we have. During the 12th century Andreas Capellanus wrote The Art of Courtly Love as a manual on how to conduct oneself in matters of the heart.
